Nestled high in the Rocky Mountains is the majestic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel and resort. Built in 1888, this original Canadian National Railway hotel offers relaxing treats to suit every palate. Same goes for its sister lodging, 60 km west — the enchanting Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise, where everyone from hard-core hikers to spa and room-service aficionados will find peace of mind.

Arriving at the Springs’ Willow Stream Spa, I’m quickly transported to ancient Rome via the European therapeutic mineral bath—a turquoise pool with columns and mosaics, where blue skies gleam in through a wide, glass casement. I’ve been instructed to follow the three-pronged waterfall regime of five minutes under each rainy deluge — hot, warm and cold — followed by a tranquil, 20-minute dip in the main mineral pool to the strains of serene music. For hardier guests there’s a terrace where you can breathe icy mountain air while staying warm in whirling waters, overlooking the Cascade Range mountains, Bow River Valley and the Stanley Thompson golf course.

Next, I spend a few minutes in the eucalyptus steam room, then a quick shower and it’s back to the private lounge to await my therapists. The Rockies rehydration treatment is bliss in a blanket, involving a full-body, dry-brush exfoliation, and an aloe/algae gel for skin replenishment—perfect for post-winter lethargy. Next, I’m sealed with Kerstin Florian, a dry-oil, lavender body spray that’s perfect for sexy, silk tank tops, because the remnants won’t stain through.

Finally, I’m wrapped in layers of oven-warm blankets which help the liquid treatment seep deep into my skin.While snug, Aamna, my amazing therapist, applies a magnificent foot rub with a rosemary, menthol and thyme “fuz balm” for my wintercracked skin. Lastly, she puts my pressure points to the test while giving me a re-mineralizing facial massage with a cream mixed with bitter orange blossom neroli water — an incredibly fragrant toner one can enjoy spritzing throughout the day.

Thoroughly detoxified, it’s time to eat. You can’t visit these two mountain jewels without taking advantage of each hotel’s culinary delights, which include sushi at the Springs’ Samurai, brunch at the Bow Valley Grill, high tea at the Chateau’s Lakeview Lounge, and fondue at Walliser Stube. After gorging, it’s definitely time for a hike (or four) around the Chateau’s incredible, turquoise waterfront. Your feet will definitely need some affection at this point, so head to the Escape Spa & Salon at the Chateau for a Caribbean pedicure and a sea-salt-and-sugar-cane scrub.

But let’s get back to food. The Springs’ Bow Valley breakfast will blow your mind: chicken, beef, pork and maple bison sausage, along with incredible breads and pastries, fluffy omega omelets or baked berry compote and bread pudding. Try to be an early bird, if only to see the dawn vista of snow-capped, moonlit mountains. There’s a Canadian theme here, withmaple as a featured ingredient: maple-baked beans, maple syrup—even the 7:30 a.m. fish platter comes with candied, smoked, maple salmon.

“In the summer, we have at least 600 people a day come through: Australians, Japanese, Americans, Europeans. We try to keep everybody as happy as possible,” says junior sous-chef Dan Werry, who’s been with the hotel 13 years. Werry also recommends dinner at Walliser Stube for Swiss-German cuisine prepared by executive chef Felix Pfister. Our excellent server Alisha showed us how to cook fondue like a pro. It’s almost like a marshmallow roast right at your table, but with skewers of ahi tuna marinated in soy sauce, which you can douse in Spanish salsa, miso soy, garlic wasabi yogurt or mango chutney with chili flakes. Dessert included Rice Krispie squares dunked in melted Toblerone chocolate, followed by an ice-cream dip. Remember that diner scene in When Harry Met Sally? This was even better.

The wine here also pairs well with the signature main courses. Try St. Francis Old Vines Zinfandel with the triple-A Alberta beef tenderloin (served with béarnaise sauce, mushroom duxelle and croquette potatoes, and bouquetiere of young vegetables). Its white counterpart, St. Francis Chardonnay, goes well with the seafood platter of lobster tail, Arctic char, Atlantic scallops, mussels, and peppered linguini in thermidor sauce. 

Did you know?
Spas have been popular since Roman times. The word comes from the expression salus per aquam — health from water. For centuries people visited European spas to drink or soak in the waters. Today water is an essential part of spa treatments, reflecting the fact that the human body is approximately 70 per cent water.

When your mountain excursion has ended, and you’re ready for an Alberta cityscape, Calgary boasts a fine range of spas. One Cowtown gem is RnR Wellness, a boutique-style spa near the city’s trendy Eau Claire Market. Owner Elisabeth Fayt, author and personal-assistant-turned-entrepreneur extraordinaire, runs a unique, holistic-based facility with a complete menu of esthetic and cosmetic medicine. She’s also cornered the “satellite spa” market in Calgary, providing in-suite treatments to 20 local hotels. RnR services include hot-stone massages, reiki sessions and consultations with an inhouse naturopathic doctor.

But the city’s best is Stillwater Spa at the Hyatt Regency Calgary. The change room alone converted me to a regular. Luxuriate as long as you like in the rectangular, whirlpool bath, but be sure to raid the mini-fridge first for thinly sliced cucumbers and cold compresses to soothe your eyes and face.

When your treatment is finished (mine was a to-die-for essential fusion massage by Chelsea), head back to the change room for the shower of your life. It’s called a rain shower and water jets both vertically and horizontally. When dry, there’s a retro-chic lounge with orange and fish-in-tank accents. Nibble on granola bars and green apples while sipping tea or cucumber water. Or you might escape to the Serenity Room for a 20-minute meditation. Like the brochure says: “Time to relax. Time to energize. Time to treasure.” •